Nassau y las Exumas, Bahamas Guía de viaje

Nassau, on New Providence island, is the capital of the Bahamas and the stop most visitors see first, usually from a cruise ship. The blocks by the piers are mostly bars, shops and the Straw Market, and a Reddit regular in r/Cruise called Señor Frog's there "a bar with mediocre food". Locals and repeat visitors instead send newcomers west to Love Beach, to the conch stands and toward a rental car (r/bahamas).

The Exumas are a chain of cays to the southeast. They hold the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, which the Bahamas National Trust calls the first marine reserve in the Bahamas and the wider Caribbean, and the famous swimming pigs of Big Major Cay, about 143 km (89 miles) from Nassau. Reddit regulars describe the Exumas as prettier than the islands just off Nassau, but farther and costlier.

This guide suits travelers with three or four days who want beaches and boat days without living inside a resort, and cruise passengers with one day who want more than the port strip. Hours, fares and park fees were checked in November 2026.

The Retreat Garden. An 11-acre palm garden around the Bahamas National Trust's headquarters on Village Road, with more than 90 palm species and, according to the Trust, the best spot on the island for migratory warblers. It opens Monday to Friday, 9am to 4pm; a day pass is $15 for adults, $8 for ages 6 to 14 and $10 for seniors (checked November 2026), and guided walks are by arrangement only. A birder who took a $30 taxi from the cruise port found the late-morning heat poor for birding, so arrive at opening.

Love Beach. On New Providence's northwest shore, about 24 minutes' drive from the cruise port, Love Beach faces a protected reef of roughly 40 acres. The tourism board calls it a local favourite for snorkelling when the water is calm and suggests going early, and a commenter in r/bahamas called the Nirvana and Love Beach area "the most beautiful beach in Nassau". Cruise bloggers report a beach shack selling snacks and drinks and renting snorkel gear for a small fee (Cruise Radio).

Jaws Beach and Clifton Heritage National Park. At the island's western tip, Jaws Beach is named after the shark film shot there and sits inside the protected Clifton Heritage area, with reef and fish just offshore (tourism board). It is about 33 minutes from the cruise port and has few facilities, so bring water. The park's official site lists 8:30am to 4:30pm opening and bookable heritage and snorkel tours; on land there are Lucayan sites and plantation ruins, and offshore an underwater sculpture by Jason deCaires Taylor (tourism board).

Dino's Gourmet Conch Salad. A roadside stand on West Bay Street in Gambier Village, about a kilometre east of Love Beach, known for tropical conch salad with pineapple, mango and apple (The Infatuation). AFAR credited Dino's with inventing that version, and the conch is cleaned and chopped to order in front of you. The wait can be long, especially on holidays, and Fodor's lists it as cash only.

Potter's Cay Dock. The historic fishing dock under the Paradise Island bridge is where conch arrives from islands across the Bahamas, and a row of stalls serves conch salad, cracked conch and whole fried fish at the water's edge. Caribbean Journal named Bang's, Blue Wave, Donnie's and McKenzie's on its 2022 visit; stalls change, so follow the crowd. The bars at the entrance are not open early in the morning, so come for lunch.

Café Matisse. Tucked behind Parliament Square on Bank Lane, this courtyard Italian restaurant is one of Nassau's oldest and sits in a roughly 100-year-old building that was once a firehouse and later a library (Global Traveler). Order the lobster salad or the lobster ravioli in bisque, or ask for the off-menu shrimp-and-lobster pappardelle that The Infatuation recommends, and book through the restaurant's website.

Skip: Señor Frog's and the bars by the cruise piers. Instead: Arawak Cay (the Fish Fry). A Reddit regular in r/Cruise called Señor Frog's "a bar with mediocre food" and pointed visitors to Oh Andros, Goldie's Conch House and Frankie Gone Bananas, and to the Fish Fry at Arawak Cay, about a 15-minute walk from the port.

Skip: Junkanoo Beach on a ship day. Instead: Love Beach or Jaws Beach. Junkanoo Beach is within walking distance of the cruise terminal and popular with cruisers for exactly that reason. Love Beach and Jaws Beach are about 25 to 35 minutes away by car and less crowded (Cruise Radio).

Skip: Harrold and Wilson Ponds National Park. Instead: The Retreat Garden. The Bahamas National Trust lists the ponds as closed for habitat restoration and repairs. For birds, the Trust points to the Retreat as the island's best spot for migratory warblers.

Skip: a "swimming pigs" tour that won't name its cays. Instead: decide which pigs you are paying for. The famous pigs live on Big Major Cay near Staniel Cay, about two hours from Nassau by speedboat (Wikipedia). One fast-boat day from Paradise Island went to Allen Cay for iguanas and Ship Channel Cay for pigs, stingrays and a shark-feeding show instead (Momma To Go), and The Points Guy advises confirming that a tour really goes to Big Major Cay, because some half-day tours skip it.

December to April is the safest bet. The tourism board describes winter as warm, low in humidity and dry, which makes it peak season, and March brings spring-break crowds. Hurricane season runs from 1 June to 30 November and peaks from August to early October; late August to early November is the cheapest and quietest stretch, with the weather risk that comes with it.

Summer highs reach the high 80s °F and stay there through September, and July is when the ocean is warmest, so it suits long snorkels if you can take the heat. Locals on Reddit tell first-timers to pack light clothes, sunscreen and a portable fan.

Junkanoo parades rush down Bay Street in the early hours of Boxing Day (26 December) and New Year's Day (tourism board). Check the weekday too: the Retreat Garden opens only Monday to Friday, and Primeval Forest only on Wednesdays and from Friday to Sunday (Bahamas National Trust).

Airport taxis charge published fares: $29 to Cable Beach, $36 to downtown and $45 to Paradise Island plus a $2 bridge toll, for two passengers, with $5 for each extra passenger and $2.20 for each bag beyond two (Lynden Pindling International Airport, checked November 2026). For other rides, agree the fare before you get in.

For the west-end beaches and parks, locals on Reddit recommend renting a car, with a warning that Nassau traffic is congested; at gas stations, wait for the attendant to fill the tank. Taxis, local buses and jitneys also work for shorter hops.

There is no passenger ferry to the Exumas. Bahamas Ferries' passenger fast ferry runs only Nassau to Spanish Wells and Harbour Island, on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, leaving Nassau at 8am and Harbour Island at 3:40pm, for $257 return for adults (Bahamas Ferries); George Town appears only on its freight schedule. To reach the Exumas, fly: Bahamasair and Western Air both fly Nassau to Exuma International near George Town (Wikipedia), and one writer's Bahamasair hop took about 40 minutes (The Points Guy).

Primeval Forest National Park. A patch of old-growth Bahamian forest in southwest New Providence where boardwalks, steps and bridges lead to limestone sinkholes up to 50 feet long, 30 feet wide and 30 feet deep. It opens Wednesday and Friday to Sunday, 9am to 4pm, for $15 per adult (Bahamas National Trust); go with a taxi or rental car, since it is well outside town.

The Queen's Staircase and Fort Fincastle. The classic downtown history stop, on every mainstream list of Nassau sights (Hand Luggage Only). Pair it with lunch at Potter's Cay, a walk east along Bay Street.

Sivananda Ashram Yoga Retreat. The beachfront ashram on Paradise Island sells a full-day pass for visitors at $85, covering two yoga classes, vegetarian meals and meditation, or a single yoga class for $30 (prices checked November 2026). Classes start at 8am and 4pm; call or WhatsApp at least an hour ahead to arrange the boat from Nassau (Sivananda Ashram).

Pick your base by what you want to do. Cable Beach is the resort strip west of downtown, home to the Baha Mar complex with its jazz club and pub, and the cheapest airport taxi ride ($29 for two). Paradise Island has the big resorts and Cabbage Beach, which Cruise Radio calls Nassau's most popular beach, with parasailing and jet skis, but every trip off the island adds the bridge toll.

Downtown puts Café Matisse, Graycliff, the Queen's Staircase and Potter's Cay within walking distance. West New Providence (Sandyport, Gambier, Love Beach) is quieter and closest to the snorkelling beaches, Dino's and Bon Vivants, but you will want a car. On the east side, a Reddit poster staying near Fort Montagu was pointed to Montagu Beach within walking distance, and to taxis, buses and jitneys for everything else.

Eat conch where Bahamians do: at Dino's roadside stand in Gambier, under the bridge at Potter's Cay and at the Fish Fry on Arawak Cay, then save one night for downtown's old dining rooms. Conch salad, fresh conch chopped with tomato, onion, peppers and citrus juice, is the dish to try (Caribbean Journal); ask where the conch came from, because the tourism board notes that queen conch numbers are declining.

Arawak Cay (the Fish Fry). A cluster of Bahamian seafood restaurants on West Bay Street that has served local favourites since 1969 (tourism board). It is the place for cracked conch, best ordered hot and crisp with peas and rice, and Reddit regulars call Oh Andros at the Fish Fry a must. Try a Sky Juice, made with gin, coconut water and condensed milk.

Dino's Gourmet Conch Salad. Tropical conch salad with pineapple, mango and apple, chopped to order on West Bay Street in Gambier Village; expect a wait (The Infatuation).

Potter's Cay Dock. Conch salad, cracked conch and whole fried fish from the stalls on the dock under the Paradise Island bridge (AFAR).

Nesbitt's Delaporte Restaurant & Lounge. A West Bay Street spot in Delaporte for a traditional Bahamian breakfast: steamed sausage in tomato sauce with grits, or sardines and grits (tourism board). Global Traveler says it has been going for more than 40 years.

Café Matisse. Courtyard Italian behind Parliament Square, known for lobster salad and lobster ravioli in bisque.

Graycliff. The splurge. Caribbean Journal ranked it first on its 2025 list of the Caribbean's 50 best restaurants, citing its huge wine and spirits collection, and The Infatuation suggests the lobster bisque, tuna tartare, beef tenderloin and bread pudding in a building from the 1700s on West Hill Street. Book through OpenTable.

Bon Vivants. A café by day and a speakeasy-style cocktail bar by night in Sandyport Plaza (The Infatuation), themed on Bahamian history and Ernest Hemingway, with a cocktail list that ran to more than 48 drinks when Caribbean Journal reviewed it.

The Swimming Pig. A late-night pub at Baha Mar with a vintage 1920s look; The Infatuation picks the French dip, with BBQ short rib nachos and pulled pork poutine for groups.

Jon Batiste's Jazz Club. The musician's 278-seat club opened at Baha Mar in January 2025, styled on the Bahamian nightclub scene of the 1950s and 1960s (OffBeat). It opens at 6pm and runs until 1am Sunday to Thursday and 2am on Fridays and Saturdays; book shows through Baha Mar.

For craft beer, Pirate Republic Brewing downtown runs brewery tours with a beer flight in its tap room, daily except Sunday at 11:30am and 2pm, for $13 (tourism board).

The Exumas by fast boat. The quickest Exuma day leaves from Paradise Island and reaches the northern Exumas in about an hour by speedboat; one hosted writer's day stopped at Allen Cay to feed iguanas and at Ship Channel Cay for pigs, stingrays, a shark-feeding show and lunch, and was back at the hotel around 5:30pm (Momma To Go). The ride can be bumpy, so pack seasickness tablets.

The Exumas by plane. For the original pigs at Big Major Cay, fly to Exuma (about 40 minutes) and join a local boat tour. The Points Guy's tour also stopped at Compass Cay for nurse sharks and Bitter Guana Cay for iguanas, but spent only about 15 minutes with the pigs; ask for a morning pig stop, when they are more active, and feed them only fruit and vegetables (The Points Guy). An overnight in George Town takes the pressure off the last flight back.

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. The Bahamas National Trust's no-take park covers 176 square miles of the central Exumas: no fishing, shelling or conching. Its office on Warderick Wells opens Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm, and Sunday morning (Bahamas National Trust).

Stocking Island, George Town. If you hop to Great Exuma, the trails and Basil's Classroom on the eastern end of Stocking Island are part of Moriah Harbour Cay National Park, with snorkelling reefs at Fowl Cay.

Rose Island. The easy, cheaper alternative: a cay a short boat ride east of Paradise Island that r/bahamas regulars rate as a very good day trip. Sandy Toes, Seas N Cays and Exuma Adventure are the operators they name.

Harbour Island. Bahamas Ferries' fast ferry makes a same-day return possible on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays: out of Nassau at 8am, back from Harbour Island at 3:40pm, $257 return for adults (Bahamas Ferries).

Paying more than the posted airport fare. The airport publishes taxi fares by zone ($29 Cable Beach, $36 downtown, $45 Paradise Island plus the $2 toll, for two people), so know them before you queue (Lynden Pindling International Airport).

Turning up on the wrong day. The Retreat Garden is weekdays only and Primeval Forest opens only Wednesday and Friday to Sunday, which is a long taxi ride to find a locked gate (Bahamas National Trust).

Booking a pig tour without asking which cay. Fast-boat days from Paradise Island and fly-in tours from George Town visit different pigs. Get the itinerary in writing (The Points Guy).

Planning on a ferry to the Exumas. Bahamas Ferries currently lists George Town only on its freight schedule; the passenger fast ferry goes to Spanish Wells and Harbour Island (Bahamas Ferries). Fly instead.

Doing the beach or the garden at midday. Calm, clear water at Love Beach and active birds at the Retreat both favour early mornings (Roger Simmons).

Feeding the pigs whatever you have. Several of the Big Major Cay pigs died in 2017, with tourists feeding them alcohol and the pigs swallowing sand among the suspected causes (Wikipedia). Feed only the fruit and vegetables your guide gives you.

Ordering conch without asking. Queen conch numbers are falling; ask where it came from and choose places that care about sourcing (tourism board).

One day

Start early at Love Beach for a snorkel over the reef while the water is calm, then drive about a kilometre east to Dino's Gourmet Conch Salad for a tropical conch salad. Head back toward town for a late lunch at Arawak Cay (the Fish Fry), about a 15-minute walk from the cruise port. If you are staying the night, end with cocktails at Bon Vivants in Sandyport.

Two days

Spend day one as above. On day two, on a weekday, be at The Retreat Garden when it opens at 9am for palms and birds, then cross town for conch salad at Potter's Cay Dock under the Paradise Island bridge. In the afternoon, climb the Queen's Staircase and walk downtown, then have dinner at Café Matisse, or at Graycliff if this is your splurge night.

Three days

Give day three to the water. For the famous pigs, fly to Exuma and join a boat tour that names Big Major Cay, ideally staying the night; for a shorter, cheaper beach day, take a boat to Rose Island. On a Wednesday or from Friday to Sunday, swap in the west end instead: Primeval Forest National Park, then Jaws Beach and the snorkel tour at Clifton Heritage National Park.

Can you visit the Exumas as a day trip from Nassau?

Yes, but choose the format first. Fast boats from Paradise Island reach the northern Exumas in about an hour, while the famous pigs of Big Major Cay are about 143 km away, roughly two hours by speedboat, so the other option is to fly to Exuma in about 40 minutes and join a local boat tour. Confirm in writing which cays are included.

Is there a ferry from Nassau to the Exumas?

Not for passengers at the moment. Bahamas Ferries' passenger fast ferry serves only Spanish Wells and Harbour Island ($257 return for adults), and George Town appears only on its freight schedule; Bahamasair and Western Air fly Nassau to Exuma International.

How much is a taxi from Nassau airport?

Posted fares for two passengers are $29 to Cable Beach, $36 to downtown and $45 to Paradise Island plus a $2 bridge toll. Each extra passenger is $5, and each bag beyond two is $2.20 (checked November 2026).

Which Nassau beach avoids the cruise crowds?

Love Beach on the northwest shore, for reef snorkelling about 24 minutes from the port, or Jaws Beach at the western tip, about 33 minutes away and with few facilities. Junkanoo Beach is the walkable option from the ships, which is why it is busy with cruisers.

Do you need Bahamian dollars?

No. Bahamian and US dollars are used interchangeably across the islands, so there is no need to change money before you arrive (Sivananda Ashram).

When is Junkanoo in Nassau?

The main parades rush down Bay Street in the early hours of Boxing Day (26 December) and New Year's Day. Outside those dates, the Educulture Junkanoo Museum downtown shows the costumes, instruments and history year-round (tourism board).